For the past several months, I was having intermittent issues with my truck not wanting to start. At first, it was just a hesitation, but over time it got worse. I noticed something else too—a leak underneath the engine, and fluid was getting all over the starter.
At first glance, I assumed it was oil, maybe leaking from the oil drain plug and somehow making its way upward to the starter. I replaced the oil drain plug with a new one, hoping that would solve it. But the leak continued, and the starter just kept getting more and more saturated.
Eventually, I decided it was time to get a professional opinion, so I took the truck to my local mechanic. Turns out, the leak wasn’t oil at all—it was coolant. A rusty coolant line running to the turbocharger had developed a slow leak, and coolant was dripping straight down onto the starter. That explained the corrosion and the trouble starting. Months of exposure to coolant had likely damaged the starter beyond repair.
So, I decided to replace the starter on my 2013 Ford F-150 XLT EcoBoost myself. Here’s how I did it:
Steps to Replacing the Starter on a 2013 Ford F-150 XLT EcoBoost
1. Disconnect the Battery
I started by popping the hood and disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery. Safety first—always isolate the electrical system before working on components like the starter.
2. Lift the Truck
I jacked up the front passenger side of the truck high enough to work comfortably underneath. I used a jack stand under the frame just in case the jack failed. Don’t ever skip this step—safety is everything.
3. Disconnect the Starter Cables
Once I was safely under the truck, I used a 13mm box-end wrench to loosen the nut on the large battery cable connected to the starter. After breaking it loose, I could turn it off the rest of the way by hand.
Then, I used a 10mm wrench to remove the smaller wire.
4. Remove the Mounting Bolts
There are two bolts holding the starter in place. The top one is a bit tricky due to limited space. I used a 13mm deep socket and a ratchet. I didn’t remove it completely at first—just loosened it to help hold the starter steady while I worked on the lower bolt.
The lower mounting bolt also holds a transmission line bracket in place. I removed that bracket using a 10mm wrench before taking out the bolt with a 13mm wrench.
5. Remove the Starter
With both bolts removed, the starter slid out. You have to shift it slightly forward to clear the flywheel housing, but then it comes right out.
6. Install the New Starter
Installing the new one was mostly the reverse of removal. Getting the new starter in place was straightforward. The tricky part? Tightening the nuts on the battery cables—my large fingers made it nearly impossible. Luckily, my 12-year-old son stepped in and helped get those nuts started. Teamwork makes the dream work! The starter I used, I purchased on Amazon right here. It worked out great and I highly recommend it for the quality and price.
**As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Final Thoughts
It turns out the real issue wasn’t electrical or oil-related, but a coolant leak that slowly destroyed the starter. I’m glad I finally got it diagnosed properly. Replacing the starter wasn’t too bad overall, just required some patience (and small hands!). If you’re having similar symptoms, don’t ignore leaks—it could save you a lot of time and money down the road.
